All Articles Inside Athens’ burgeoning street art scene

Inside Athens’ burgeoning street art scene

There's creativity at every turn in the Greek capital

Rebecca Hall
By Rebecca HallMar 29, 2023 4 minutes read
Street art in the Gazi district of Kerimikos in Athens, Greece
Street art in the Gazi district of Kerimikos in Athens, Greece
Image: GrigoriosMoraitis/Getty Images

The mention of 3,000-year-old Athens may conjure up thoughts of ancient relics such as the Acropolis, the Parthenon, and the Temple of Poseidon. But there’s a modern phenomenon that gives today’s Athens a significant part of its personality: a growing street art scene that dazzles locals and visitors alike. Much of the art found around the city flourished in the wake of the 2008 European financial crisis. Greece bore the brunt of that, and many significant murals seen today reflect social and political themes. In any case, a visit to this layered city isn’t complete without a tour of the art reflecting its past, present, and future. Read on to discover the Athens neighborhoods that are rich with eye-popping, culturally significant works—and where to find the most unforgettable street art once you’re on the ground.

Keramikos

“Access Control” by artists Aiva and INO, in Kerimikos, Athens
“Access Control” by artists Aiva and INO, in Kerimikos, Athens
Image: Milos Bicanski/Getty Images

Keramikos, a district that once marked the northwest border of ancient Athens, is a strong contender for the street art capital of the city. Noteworthy murals can be found on the side of the Pavlidis Chocolate Factory on Pireos Street (the main thoroughfare in the district). “Access Control,” a collaboration between INO, Athen’s top active muralist, and Aiva, a fellow Athenian visual and street artist who incorporates many references to the city’s ancient lineage in his work, is an Orwellian depiction of a human eye watching as computer virus flees. Nearby, on the side of the old tram building, you can see INO’s “Last Supper of Athens,” which comments on the Greek political system. In the piece, the central figure (expected to be the Prime Minister) is missing. However, his ministers sit alongside, handling bribes or falling asleep as they ignore the grasping hands of the needy below.

While you’re in the neighborhood, make time to visit the Keramikos Archaeological Site, named after the community of potters (keramies) who lived here in antiquity. Stop for a glass of wine and appetizers at Caravin Wine & Wanderlust, or visit neighboring Gazi; the city's original gas work district is now home to Technopolis, a museum and exhibition space. Of the many boutique hotels in the neighborhood, the Ivis 4 is a chic, budget-friendly option with a superb all-day menu and murals by local artist SimpleG in some of the 14 rooms.

Omonia

“He is Praying for Us” by Pavlos Tsakonas, Kretsis, and Anastasakos, in Omonia, Athens
“He is Praying for Us” by Pavlos Tsakonas, Kretsis, and Anastasakos, in Omonia, Athens
Image: Oli Scarff/Getty Images

The edgy and cosmopolitan district of Omonia blends the old and new. Here, you’ll find several examples of neoclassical architecture, as well as a city square dating back to 1862. In the 1960s, the square became a popular filming location thanks to a spectacular new water fountain, lawn, and garden. Though the area declined in popularity after the fountain was removed in 1992, a new version—one of the largest fountains in Europe—was installed in 2020, marking the beginning of the area's revival. Today, you’ll find landmark murals, including “He Is Praying For Us,” a 2011 collaboration by Pavlos Tsakonas, Kretsis, and Anastasakos. The mural shows the hands of God praying down to the people, a reference to Albrecht Dürer’s Renaissance masterpiece “Praying Hands.” In this take, instead of showing the people praying to God, God is praying to the people, wishing them well through the years of the financial crisis.

Check in at the new Brown Lighthouse Hotel; opened in late 2021 in Omonia Square, it’s well situated near the massive Hondos Center department store and various sightseeing hotspots. Treat yourself to a traditional Greek spread at Athinaikon, a five-minute walk from the square. Open since 1932, this family-run institution serves traditional Greek and Mediterranean cuisine (think fresh grilled seafood and hearty moussaka) to crowds of locals and visitors.

Psyri and Monastiraki

“Sustainability” by M.Koan in Monastiraki, Athens
“Sustainability” by M.Koan in Monastiraki, Athens
Image: Management/Tripadvisor

Lined with lively bars and tavernas, the vibrant neighborhoods of Psyri and Monastiraki have become a canvas to many street artists over the years. Stand outside the Athens Central Market (where locals and travelers congregate to sample cut-rate meat, fish, and spices) to marvel at “Sustainability,” a mural on the side of the Play hotel across the street. The work of Athenian artist M. Koan, the piece depicts a young girl playing with butterflies and is meant to symbolize two themes: youth and ecology.

A short stroll southwest through Psyri brings you past a number of remarkable murals, including “Loukanikos,” a collaboration by artists SMART, N_Grams, and Alex Martinez. This touching tribute shows Loukanikos, aka Riot Dog, a stray pup that became beloved to the protestors who gathered outside parliament during the financial crisis.

Anafiotika

Mural by SONKE in Anafiotika, Athens
Mural by SONKE in Anafiotika, Athens
Image: Courtesy of Awesome Athens Experiences

Heading from Plaka toward the northeast side of the Acropolis, you’ll find Anafiotika, nicknamed “an island village within the mainland.” In the 19th century, builders from Anafi, thought to be the best in the land, made their home here as King Otto tasked them with building his palace. Homesick for their island, they went about replicating a neighborhood of their own, constructing whitewashed, coastal-style houses against a backdrop of the Acropolis.

Nowadays, a handful of those homes remain in Anafiotika; while walking through the district’s cobbled alleyways, you can see them—along with centuries-old Byzantine churches and several modern-day murals—sometimes within alleyways dedicated to street art. Much of the work in this area is by the Athenian street artist and graphic designer Loaf, whose signature motif is a colorful owl. You’ll also see work by the Athenian street artist Sonnke, who makes his mark in Anafiotika with melancholy female figures.

The Plaka Steps leading up to Anafiotika are alive with charming bars and restaurants. Stop into the Anafiotika Cafe to enjoy a glass of wine while watching the sun set from their patio or roof terrace. The nearby Cave of Acropolis offers stunning Acropolis views, as does the Plaka Hotel; situated less than a mile outside of Anafiotika, it makes a perfect base for sightseeing.

Rebecca Hall
Rebecca Hall is a Greece based travel writer and author who writes hotel reviews, for luxury travel members clubs, inflight magazines, among others and is a Lonely Planet and Rough Guide guidebook updater and creator.Her debut novel Girl Gone Greek–available on Amazon–has been written into a double award-winning screenplay and when not travelling or writing, she enjoys spending downtime sampling the many different coffee shops in Athens.