All Articles A queer traveler's guide to Montreal

A queer traveler's guide to Montreal

How to make the most of your next trip up north.

By Todd PlummerApr 25, 2024 4 minutes read
Pride Parade during Montreal Pride
Pride Parade during Fierté
Image: Eva Blue/Courtesy of Tourisme Montréal

The first time you hear someone in Montreal greet you with a “Bonjour, hi” can be quite jarring—but in this city, seemingly opposite things can coexist at the same time. And it’s not just the bilingualism. Diversity is in Montreal’s DNA.

I first arrived in Montreal as a university student, and, as with most young adults who suddenly find themselves on their own in a big city, my surroundings profoundly shaped who I am today. The 514 is known for its history and architecture, its mind-boggling diversity of neighborhoods, and, above all else, being open to anyone and everyone.

Simply put, the queer scene here is one of the most vibrant and exciting I’ve ever seen. There’s a distinct “Gay Village” but, truly, you’ll find LGBTQ+ people and businesses all over this city. With a roster full of queer events and festivals throughout the year, the city also hosts one of North America’s most exciting Pride celebrations. And while it might be impossible to savor each perspective and offering that Montreal has to offer in a single visit, here’s a good roadmap to get you started.

Set your home base outside of the Gay Village…

Deluxe King Room at Four Seasons Hotel Montreal
Views from the Four Seasons Hotel Montreal
Image: Management/Tripadvisor

If it’s your first time in Montréal, book a room downtown. It’s a controversial opinion, I know, but hear me out. This is one of the most queer-friendly cities in the world so while you might be tempted to find a hotel in the Gay Village, I find that a slightly more central location is best for exploring Montreal. It’s here that you’ll find the greatest variety of hotels, too—I recommend the Four Seasons Hotel Montreal (a splurge) or the Hôtel Espresso (a more budget-friendly option).

When you’re downtown—often referred to as the “Golden Square Mile” or “Centre-ville”—it’s a cinch to walk to all the major spots, including Mount Royal, most of the city’s museums, the Quartier des Spectacles, and multiple metro stations.

Tip: If you’re a return visitor, venture a bit further out into Plateau or Old Montreal, to get a better feel for the city’s more residential neighborhoods.

… but don’t skip visiting it

People walking on Sainte Catherine street in Montreal's Gay Village
Sainte Catherine street in Montreal's Gay Village
Image: krblokhin/Getty Images

There’s a beautiful directness in calling your predominantly LGBTQ+ neighborhood “the Gay Village”—and it feels quintessentially Montreal. It all began in the 1970s when marginalized people began congregating around rue Sainte-Catherine Est, an area known for affordable housing (at the time), as well as its proximity to downtown. Since then, the Gay Village has become a largely residential neighborhood stacked with queer-owned businesses, bars, and orgs.

The majority of its businesses and shops can be found along rue Sainte-Catherine, between rue Berri and rue Papineau—be sure to check out La Graine Brûlée, a funky coffee shop with an outdoor patio, as well as Tendresse, one of the best vegan restaurants in the city. I love to walk up and down this stretch of the city, and I especially love it for the people-watching. On a warm night, this is one of the liveliest parts of the city.

By day, hit up the city’s queer-owned spots

Beer flight with chocolate tasting
Beer and chocolate tasting at Brasserie Harricana, in Montreal
Image: TravelingSparkle/Tripadviso

One of the best parts about Montreal is how easy it is to get around and explore the city’s diversity of neighborhoods. I always pack good walking shoes because I inevitably find myself wandering from downtown to the Plateau to the Mile End, spending way longer exploring than I anticipated. Throughout the city, you’ll find tons of queer-friendly and queer-owned businesses. Here, a few of my favorites:

  • Dispatch Café: A hip spot for a coffee in the upper-crust hipster Plateau neighborhood
  • l’Euguélionne: A feminist queer bookshop in the Gay Village that hosts author talks and workshops

By night, take in drag, music, and more

Cocktail garnished with fruit on the bar of Complexe Sky
Signature cocktail at Complexe Sky, in Montreal
Image: Management/Tripadvisor

Montreal takes on a whole new persona after dark. In my university years, it was a weekend ritual to walk down rue Sainte-Catherine with a group of friends to see where the night took us—and having been back many times as an adult, I’m happy to confirm that’s still an absolute must-do. You’ll find a lot of options in the Gay Village, including Complexe Sky, one of Canada’s largest nightclubs (don’t miss the rooftop terrace), as well as Club Unity, where the dancing continues until 3 a.m. If you’re a real night owl, check out Stereo, an after-hours club that is renowned for its killer sound system pumping out the deepest house beats.

Montreal’s queer scene is anchored by a thriving drag community. For me, it isn’t a proper night out until you’ve kicked things off with a performance at Cabaret Mado, named after the city’s drag icon, Mado Lamotte. If it’s too full, you’ll also find regular shows at the nearby Bar Le Cocktail.

Tip: For something more low-key, check Montreal Improv, which puts on a weekly LGBTQ+ comedy night, or the popular Mile End watering hole Bar Notre-Dame-des-Quilles, which regularly organizes queer open mic and trivia nights.

Where to celebrate Pride in Montreal

Drag performer
Drag performer Heidi N Closet at Montreal Pride
Image: Courtesy of Fierté Montréal

If you want to fit in with the locals, it’s best to refer to Montreal Pride by its Francophone name, Fierté. Whereas most cities devote a weekend to their Pride festivities, Fierté gets a whopping 10 days in August, culminating with a Pride Parade through downtown. Here’s what not to miss:

  • The preceding week-plus of festivities includes Community Days, when the Gay Village’s thoroughfare is shut down for LGBTQ+ community orgs and businesses to set up booths for pedestrians.
  • Thursday through Sunday of Fierté, there’s no better place to be than Olympic Park, where you’ll find a series of free outdoor shows, ranging from drag operas to DJ sets that have the entire crowd dancing for hours on end. Festivities usually kick off at 2 p.m. and wrap just before midnight, but it’s the kind of thing where you can come and go as you please. Grab dinner nearby (I love Hélicoptère), and return when you’re ready to dance to your heart’s content.
  • On the final Sunday of Fierté, the Pride Parade makes its way down Boulevard René-Lévesque from downtown through the Village. Community members and allies are encouraged to participate in the march, but it’s equally as fun to find a spot on the sidelines (downtown will have more sidewalk space, but the Village end has more energy) and watch the festivities roll by.

Your guide to LGBTQ+ travel

Getaways, Pride celebrations, and stories from the community
Explore now
Todd Plummer
Todd Plummer is a Boston based skier, polo player, triathlete, and writer. While New England is home, he also enjoys finding adventure around the world, from skiing in British Columbia to safari in Botswana.