3 perfect days in Porto

Porto’s sunnier sister Lisbon used to get all the attention. But recently, Portugal’s “second city” has stepped out of the shadows, earning a reputation as one of Europe’s artsiest destinations. I loved exploring its modern art galleries, trendy restaurants, and tile-colored landmarks.

This three-day itinerary covers the highlights—from the cobblestone streets and pastel-colored townhouses of Ribeira to the hipster flea markets of Cedofeita—while also carving out enough time to go on optional day-trips up the coast or across the Douro River. It also uses real Tripadvisor reviews and ratings, so it’s like getting a list of recs from a well-traveled friend.

Regardless of how you’ve made it to Porto, no visit is complete without a tour of the São Bento train station, a century-old Beaux-Arts stunner in Baixa with a mansard roof and Renaissance stone façade. Its light-filled atrium is decorated with some 20,000 hand-painted azulejos (tiles) depicting important moments in Portuguese history, such as the Conquest of Ceuta.

From there, it’s a five-minute walk to another Porto icon: the awe-inspiring Café Majestic, on the bustling Rua de Santa Catarina. Dating to 1921, this Art Nouveau masterpiece was modeled after a Parisian café and served as a popular gathering spot for artists, politicians, and intellectuals. Sit in the main dining area, sip an espresso, and try Portuguese specialties like rabanada (similar to French toast) as you listen to live music on a grand piano. It’s worth checking the schedule in advance to be sure you’re not missing a painting exhibition, a book launch, poetry reading, or other event.

Porto has no shortage of fine-dining restaurants. But you can’t come all this way and not try a cachorrinho (Portuguese hot dog), made with crusty bread, fresh sausage, and topped with spicy sauce. My go-to spot: Gazela snack-bar, which has been making hot-pressed and cheesy cachorrinhos for 50+ years, sometimes serving more than 300 customers per day. Do like the locals and pair your order with a side of fries and an ice-cold beer.

If you’re still hungry, make your way to Conga—another Porto classic—for a bifana pork sandwich, seasoned with garlic and spices and served on a white bread roll. The institution sells thousands of these sandwiches every day along with other hits like chamuças (Portuguese samosas) and francesinhas (traditional Porto sandwiches).

Now that you’ve had your fill of Portuguese treats, it’s time to experience the city’s world-class cultural scene, starting with the Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis. Housed within a former royal residence, the institution—the oldest public museum in Portugal—is a stately environment for perusing 19th- and 20th-century sculptures, decorative objects, and paintings, many of which were made by prominent Portuguese artists like António Soares dos Reis (the museum’s namesake). You could easily spend an entire day exploring the vast collection and formal gardens, but there’s plenty more to take in.

Photophiles should buy a ticket at the nearby Portuguese Centre of Photography, which houses an extensive selection of vintage cameras dating to the 19th century, along with temporary exhibitions that trace the country’s photographic history. The building is a former courthouse and prison; some exhibitions are held inside old jail cells!

Harry Potter fan? Visit the stunning Livraria Lello bookshop, which is believed to have inspired J.K. Rowlings’ descriptions of Hogwarts and Diagon Alley. Photography is strictly prohibited, but don’t let that stop you from admiring the shop’s beautiful Neo-Gothic façade and Art Nouveau interior, including its show-stopping crimson staircase.

For more architectural immersion, head down to the river to glimpse the magnificent Palácio da Bolsa, a Neoclassical landmark and UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Church of Saint Francis, a Gothic monument known for its glittering Baroque interior decoration.

SIGHTSEEING TOUR OPTIONS

At sunset, climb the city’s famous Clérigos Tower to take in 360-degree views of the skyline. The spiral stairs can get narrow at the top, but no other spot in the city offers views so expansive.

Afterwards, reward your effort with a port wine tasting at Touriga, where the expert staff are highly knowledgeable about the fortified wine, including the country’s top producers. If you want to stock up on vinho verde and other wines to take home, this is your best bet.

From there, you’re a short walk to dinner at Cozinha das Flores from Michelin-recognized Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes, formerly of London’s Chiltern Firehouse. While the interiors skew Scandinavian, the menu focuses on northern Portuguese ingredients and traditions, like a pastel de nata made with a creamy turnip custard or fios d’ovos with egg yolk ice cream and presunto shavings.

End the evening with a nightcap at Book House or Bonaparte Downtown, both moody, low-lit bars with great people-watching and killer craft brews. There’s also great bar-hopping on the nearby Rua Galerías de París.

Cedofeita has been compared to New York’s SoHo neighborhood or Montmartre in Paris for its bohemian spirit. On Saturdays, a flea market takes over the Praça de Carlos Alberto square, with antique dealers and designers selling their wares. After, it’s time for breakfast at EARLY, a design-forward wood-paneled café serving homemade cakes, brioche French toast, freshly baked sourdough bread, and Chemex coffee. Tip: Inquire about their exclusive supper club series, where the restaurant hosts gastronomic pop-ups at “secret” spots around the city, such as the enchanted garden of Casa São Roque.

From there, it’s on to Bombara Street, the nucleus of all things new and cool in Cedofeita. On your hit list: Ó Galería, a contemporary art space specializing in books, zines, and quirky illustrations; Loja, an interior showroom with two floors of swoon-worthy furniture, lamps, art objects, vintage pieces, and stationery; and Galeria Presença, dedicated to displaying Portuguese and international artists, including Maria Trabulo and Francisco Aquierós. For those preferring fashion to art, don’t miss Earlymade, on Rua do Rosário, which specializes in cool workwear, like high-waisted corduroy trousers, blocky all-purpose jackets constructed out of Japanese denim, leather boots, and more.

After all that retail therapy, you’ll have worked up an appetite for lunch at Tia Tia Porto, where small veggie-forward plates come with a great selection of natural wine. Sit in the sun-drenched outdoor patio and try Portuguese plates with a global spin, like coconut escabeche with Hokkaido pumpkin cream or a banana cream dessert with port caramel drizzle and 24-month aged São Jorge cheese.

Work off lunch with a leisurely stroll around the gardens of the Crystal Palace. Built in 1865 and modeled off London’s Crystal Palace, the property is surrounded by approximately 20 acres of gardens planted with rhododendrons, ginkgoes, beech trees, and camelias. There are also themed gardens, including the Garden of Aromatic Plants and the Garden of Feelings, which offer breathtaking views of the Douro River and even the Atlantic Ocean.

From there, walk back toward the center, pausing to admire the 18th-century Igreja do Carmo church, which is known for its impressive gilt altars and blue-and-white azulejo tiling. Or head north to check out one of the city’s modern masterpieces: the Rem Koolhaas-designed Casa da Música, which stands out with its cube-like concrete design. It’s worth checking the schedule in advance to enjoy musical performances across all genres—from classical and electronic to jazz and fado.

If you’re not feeling too wobbly from all the walking, continue on to The Serralves Foundation, a modern art museum with a 44-acre garden complex and a blush-colored Art Deco villa, located on the outer edges of the city. It’s one of the city’s cultural must-dos: the Museu de Arte Contemporânea was dreamed up by the Porto-based architect Álvaro Siza Vieira and hosts exhibitions on heavyweights like Joan Miró and Alexander Calder. Need an energy boost? Enjoy some tea and sweets on the terrace overlooking the gardens.

CULTURAL HERITAGE TOUR OPTIONS

The Porto-born chef Vasco Coelho Santos has worked in some of the world’s top kitchens, including Spain’s El Bulli and Mugaritz restaurants. Travelers can experience Santos’ country-spanning style at two of Porto’s best eateries: the Michelin-starred Euskalduna Studio, where creative Portuguese plates are served at an omakase-like counter, or the more casual Semea on the banks of the Douro River. Both restaurants are destinations in their own right—you’ll want to stay for hours, soaking up the ambiance!

Close out the night at Musa das Virtudes, also facing the Douro, which has 15 brews on tap and a semi-open kitchen that dishes out late-night food until the wee hours of the morning.

It’s worth renting a car and getting out of the city to admire the windswept coastline. An hour north will get you to Cabedelo, one of the best beaches in the region, which has fine white sand and is ringed by a pine forest. As you journey back to Porto, be sure to stop at the protected dunes of the Douro Estuary Nature Reserve, where there are always plenty of kitesurfers and bodyboarders.

To stay closer to home, venture 20 minutes north to Piscina das Marés. Built into a rocky massif fronting the Atlantic and designed by Porto’s Alvaro Siza (remember him from Parque de Serralves?), the piscina is considered one of the world’s most architecturally dazzling pools, with waters fed by the tide. Tip: If you don’t want to get wet, take in the views from the cafeteria.

You’ll want to stick in the area for early lunch at Casa de Chá da Boa Nova, a restaurant declared a National Monument by the Portuguese government for its modern architecture and surreal setting between a 46-meter lighthouse, a 14th-century Franciscan church, and the cliffs of Leça da Palmeira. If you’re going to splurge on one meal during your trip, let it be this one: The wine list has more than 450 Portuguese labels and the menu spotlights only the freshest seafood.

Most Porto restaurants serve a selection of Port, a fortified wine produced in the Douro Valley. But to go to the heart of port production, you’ll need to cross the river—I recommend taking the five-minute cable car that rises nearly 200 feet above ground—to visit the port cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia. Most of the port “lodges” are built into the rocky hillsides and open to the public, offering guided tours and tastings.

At Calém, tours start in a small interactive museum with information about the Douro Valley region and the different grape varieties. After, you’ll visit the cellar, followed by a port wine tasting on the terrace. Another favorite: Poças, one of the few port wine lodges still owned by a Portuguese family.

FOOD AND WINE TOUR OPTIONS

When the sun goes down, there’s no better place to be than Restaurante Dona Maria, located at The Lodge Hotel in Vila Nova de Gaia. It’s widely considered one of the city’s most romantic restaurants for its breathtaking views of the river and the terracotta rooftops of Porto. A large wine list and the authentic Portuguese cuisine only adds to the ambiance but be sure to make a reservation for the outdoor terrace because tables fill up fast.

Back in Porto, finish out your trip with a tipple at Base, an open-air bar with wooden benches and views of the Clérigos Tower. It’s open year-round, and there’s always something cool going on, whether a DJ set, a live music performance, or a gastronomic pop-up.