Golden Spruce Trail

Golden Spruce Trail

Golden Spruce Trail
4.5
What people are saying
By PookyCake
Walking the Unmaintained Section
4.0 of 5 bubblesMay 2022
NOTE: This review deals primarily with the “unmaintained” segment of the Golden Spruce Trail. To read more about the “official” portion, see my earlier review on this site. The Golden Spruce Trail is a short, wide path that winds its way through beautiful moss-covered forest featuring awe-inspiring old growth red cedar and Sitka Spruce. Kiidk’yaas, the Golden Spruce, may be long gone but the massive trees that line this 400 meter trek still make the trail worthwhile. If one’s in need of some “forest therapy,” the Golden Spruce Trail will do you well: Take your time, amble about, and admire the leviathan-like trees before you. Consider how the forest itself is a living, breathing entity – everything depends upon everything else. The late Ben Davidson’s informative plaques – placed strategically along the trail – do much to educate and inform: “I am the grandmother of the Haida, one of thousands of trees [. . .] that grow to provide, nurture and teach.” And, importantly: “Look after me, and in turn, I will always look after you.” These are the lessons of the forest and we’d do well to heed these words. Once you reach the end of the “official” trail (the viewpoint from which, once upon a time, you could observe Kiidk’yaas across the river), you’ll spy a small sign: “This trail is not maintained.” This marker indicates the start of the “unmaintained” section of the Golden Spruce Trail, which clocks in at over a kilometer in length. I couldn’t help but notice there are absolutely no write-ups about this section of the trail in any of the previous TripAdvisor reviews (I read all of them), Google, All Trails, Go Haida Gwaii, and various online blogs. How come? I know the skeleton of the Golden Spruce (what’s left of it), and the old growth trees along the official trail, are the main attraction, but surely the rest of the trail merits comment? Setting out with friends, I sought to answer that very question AND fill a void with respect to commentary on this trail. In brief, this segment of the Golden Spruce Trail is quite easy to navigate. A small section of the trail – immediately behind the “unmaintained” signage – has been taken out by a previous storm, but an alternate path has been carved out presumably by people wishing to keep this route “user maintained.” The rest of the trail is fairly clear, with minimal deadfall; in fact, I’d suggest this route very much mirrors the “official” portion since it, too, is rife with lush mosses and beautiful old growth. Where it differs is in the occasional grassy field you’ll come upon + the attractive sandbank (about 10 minutes in). I’d argue this latter feature is the highlight of the unmaintained section and, therefore, represents an ideal place to picnic or simply take it all in. In my view, the reason you may wish to hike the unmaintained route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy, as I’ve written elsewhere, has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social and spiritual meaning. As you walk along the Golden Spruce Trail (“official” and “unmaintained”), you can capture glimpses of this: Ben Davidson’s information plaques highlight culture and spirituality; the Yakoun and its riverbank is rich and teeming with life, providing sustenance on numerous levels; and, the trail’s ability to bring us all together – to create dialogue about conservation – is an important social function. Reviewing the unmaintained section of the Golden Spruce Trail in isolation, I’d probably rate it at 3 stars because, while a nice hike, the scenery doesn’t change all that much from the “official” portion of the trail. Reviewing it within the context of the full trail and Yaaguun Gandlaay, however, I’d rate it at a solid 4 stars because, taken as a whole, the trail highlights and reflects some of the Conservancy’s best features.

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4.5
4.5 of 5 bubbles44 reviews
Excellent
23
Very good
15
Average
6
Poor
0
Terrible
0

PookyCake
Victoria, Canada14,875 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
May 2022
NOTE: This review deals primarily with the “unmaintained” segment of the Golden Spruce Trail. To read more about the “official” portion, see my earlier review on this site.

The Golden Spruce Trail is a short, wide path that winds its way through beautiful moss-covered forest featuring awe-inspiring old growth red cedar and Sitka Spruce. Kiidk’yaas, the Golden Spruce, may be long gone but the massive trees that line this 400 meter trek still make the trail worthwhile. If one’s in need of some “forest therapy,” the Golden Spruce Trail will do you well: Take your time, amble about, and admire the leviathan-like trees before you. Consider how the forest itself is a living, breathing entity – everything depends upon everything else. The late Ben Davidson’s informative plaques – placed strategically along the trail – do much to educate and inform: “I am the grandmother of the Haida, one of thousands of trees [. . .] that grow to provide, nurture and teach.” And, importantly: “Look after me, and in turn, I will always look after you.” These are the lessons of the forest and we’d do well to heed these words.

Once you reach the end of the “official” trail (the viewpoint from which, once upon a time, you could observe Kiidk’yaas across the river), you’ll spy a small sign: “This trail is not maintained.” This marker indicates the start of the “unmaintained” section of the Golden Spruce Trail, which clocks in at over a kilometer in length. I couldn’t help but notice there are absolutely no write-ups about this section of the trail in any of the previous TripAdvisor reviews (I read all of them), Google, All Trails, Go Haida Gwaii, and various online blogs. How come? I know the skeleton of the Golden Spruce (what’s left of it), and the old growth trees along the official trail, are the main attraction, but surely the rest of the trail merits comment? Setting out with friends, I sought to answer that very question AND fill a void with respect to commentary on this trail.

In brief, this segment of the Golden Spruce Trail is quite easy to navigate. A small section of the trail – immediately behind the “unmaintained” signage – has been taken out by a previous storm, but an alternate path has been carved out presumably by people wishing to keep this route “user maintained.” The rest of the trail is fairly clear, with minimal deadfall; in fact, I’d suggest this route very much mirrors the “official” portion since it, too, is rife with lush mosses and beautiful old growth. Where it differs is in the occasional grassy field you’ll come upon + the attractive sandbank (about 10 minutes in). I’d argue this latter feature is the highlight of the unmaintained section and, therefore, represents an ideal place to picnic or simply take it all in.

In my view, the reason you may wish to hike the unmaintained route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy, as I’ve written elsewhere, has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social and spiritual meaning. As you walk along the Golden Spruce Trail (“official” and “unmaintained”), you can capture glimpses of this: Ben Davidson’s information plaques highlight culture and spirituality; the Yakoun and its riverbank is rich and teeming with life, providing sustenance on numerous levels; and, the trail’s ability to bring us all together – to create dialogue about conservation – is an important social function.

Reviewing the unmaintained section of the Golden Spruce Trail in isolation, I’d probably rate it at 3 stars because, while a nice hike, the scenery doesn’t change all that much from the “official” portion of the trail. Reviewing it within the context of the full trail and Yaaguun Gandlaay, however, I’d rate it at a solid 4 stars because, taken as a whole, the trail highlights and reflects some of the Conservancy’s best features.
Written May 18, 2022
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

wilhelmm-norway
Fornebu, Norway188 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2019
While the trail is a great "do it yourself-activity", it will be 100 times more meaningfull and insightfull if you do the trail with a local guide! And noone better than Dale Lore, the owner of the local grocery store and mayor of Port Clements, to take along for this! Dale has a lifelong experience in the haida Gwaii forests, and has been in the frontline for limiting the logging industry's destruction of the Haida ecology systems. Also he has an incredible insight into the Haida culture, their old places and artefacts, including places where you will see abandoned huge dugout canoes. Dale offers half day- and full day tours. Don't miss it! But even if you must go it alone: Don't miss the Golden Spruce trail - but read up on the story first, so you understand where the "Golden Spruce" notion comes from
Written October 8, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

susan c
Victoria, Canada102 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2019
If you have read the book Golden Spruce then you will enjoy the visit even more. This place is VERY special. Take your time walking the trail, breath in the mossy aromas and enjoy the quiet. A wonderful place.
Written August 12, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

PookyCake
Victoria, Canada14,875 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2017 • Solo
The Golden Spruce Trail is located about 10 minutes (3.5 km) outside the community of Port Clements and represents a brisk 20-minute roundtrip walk. Up until January 1997, the end of this short trail led to a viewpoint whereby you could see and admire the Golden Spruce, or Kiidk’yaas. The ancient tree, estimated to be about 300 years old, was a massive Sitka spruce known for its rare “golden” needles. It figured prominently in Haida stories. Unfortunately, in mid-January, the tree was chopped down by the deranged “protester,” Grant Hadwin. His actions sparked international outrage; the tale is powerfully told in John Vaillant’s “The Golden Spruce” (2005), which is a must read and primer for anyone wanting to walk this trail. Context is important to understanding and appreciating this place.

I had the privilege of seeing the actual Golden Spurce in June of 1996, a mere 7 months before it was felled. The trail was a bit narrower back then, but still easy to navigate. Seeing and being surrounded by the massive old growth forest was a fantastic experience, but nothing could compare to seeing Kiidk’yaas in person. Its golden foliage radiated in contrast to its greener relatives and the almost black Yakoun River at its base. My only regret was not having a camera at the time.

In any event, I had the opportunity to once again walk the trail for the first time in 20 years this past summer. The trail has been widened and is better maintained, thus making it accessible to those with mobility issues. The old growth forest; the soft and lush moss; monumental trees and decaying nurse logs still maintain and hold their power over those who hike the trail. It is a very serene – almost spiritual – experience; one heightened even further by the plaques placed throughout highlighting the Haida’s spiritual, emotional and practical attachment to the land. Once you reach the end of the pathway, you come upon the skeleton of the Golden Spruce. It is such a sad site to see this once prominent tree laying dead – a mere shell of itself – all because of some misguided lunatic. Thus, the walk is both beautiful and tragic at the same time.

In death, however, we often find life. After the Golden Spruce fell in 1997, a number of cuttings were taken from the tree in hopes of planting “golden” offspring. One such cutting has indeed survived and is viewable in Port Clements’ Millennium Park. The golden needles shine bright and radiant.

In short, the Golden Spruce Trail is more of a brief walk than a hike, taking all of 20 minutes round trip (longer if you want to sit and admire the surrounding natural beauty). For further context, I recommend reading Vaillant’s 2005 book and also visiting Port’s local museum.
Written September 16, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Linda B
Surrey, Canada47 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Jun 2018 • Couples
The trail has frequent informative signs about the history of the people and area. An easy walk in a rain forest.

It was difficult to determine which stump was the golden spruce tree.
Written June 30, 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

sfp58
Coquitlam, Canada193 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Jul 2019 • Couples
This short walk goes through some amazing forest. It's quite level and ends where you used to be able to view the Golden Spruce across the river. Now you can only see that it's become a nurse log for new growth. Too bad about that, but the walk is still worth it. Great for those with accessibility issues to see old growth forest.
Written July 10, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Scott R
Vancouver Island, Canada293 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
May 2019 • Couples
A very nice short and easy walk through some spectacular old growth Sitka Spruce to the Yakoun River. Worth the drive
Written May 26, 2019
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

SelectiveTraveler99
Portland, OR122 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
Jul 2018 • Friends
The reason to take this short walk is to marvel at the old growth trees and appreciate the Haida signage along the way.
Written July 22, 2018
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

Nicole P
Belleville, Canada50 contributions
3.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2017 • Friends
Not for someone who loves to hike all day. This trail, while beautiful and well maintained, was extremely short, and we didn't feel it was worth the drive to Port Clements. Sorry :/
Written September 13, 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

snorkelfacer
Lloydminster, Canada13 contributions
4.0 of 5 bubbles
Aug 2015 • Couples
easy hiking trail with nice wheelchair friendly path. Short easy walk with some huge old growth trees along the river.a must see in Port Clements.
Written August 20, 2015
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.

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GOLDEN SPRUCE TRAIL - All You MUST Know Before You Go (2025)

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