Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site Conservancy

Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site Conservancy

Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site Conservancy
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PookyCake
Victoria, Canada14,505 contributions
5.0 of 5 bubbles
May 2022
Established in 2008, the 2,689 hectare Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site/Conservancy can be accessed approximately 5km southeast of Port Clements via Bayview Drive. Bayview eventually turns into the Port Man Forest Service Road, which provides greater access to the Conservancy. Please be advised that you’ll be traveling along active logging roads, so proper deference and caution should be exercised while exploring the area.

Yaaguun Gandlaay has been used by the Haida people for at least 10,000 years for cultural, spiritual and social purposes. Historically, the Conservancy contained a number of ancient Haida villages and seasonal camp sites, including Hlakeguns, Yagunkun and Undlskadjuns – all located near the Yakoun. If you’re visiting Yaaguun Gandlaay hoping to see any visible remnants of these sites . . . well, keep dreaming, because nature has completely taken them back . . . as she should. Of course, that’s not to say there are no ancient cultural sites remaining, because there are plenty throughout the Conservancy. You just have to know where to look! Those with a keen eye can spot many a culturally modified tree (CMT). Interestingly, more explicit evidence of ancient Haida land use and culture can be found just outside the boundaries of Yaaguun Gandlaay at the “Haida Canoe Trail” (see my review on this site), which is located adjacent the Port Man Forest Service Road, approximately 11km outside Port Clements.

As one travels the Conservancy, it’s easy to see why the site is protected. On the land, you’re basically surrounded on all sides by beautiful examples of old growth spruce, cedar, and Western hemlock trees. In fact, the Conservancy is home to some of the Island’s largest remaining cedars – something that leaves you in awe when you experience them up close. On the water, the Yakoun estuary is the only one on Haida Gwaii that serves as habitat for ALL coastal salmon species – Chinook, chum, coho, sockeye and pinks. It also serves as home to steelhead and cutthroat trout. The area is also an important migratory stop for numerous species of birds.

In terms of recreational activities, Yaaguun Gandlaay is fairly diverse thanks to the number of service/logging roads that cross the Conservancy. These roads – and side roads – provide easy access to the Yakoun for fishing, hiking and picnicking with the family. I’ve also noted some sites to be suitable for camping. I should probably stress that one shouldn’t drive onto the side roads unless operating a truck, because these can become quite rough and miry. The main service roads – Port, QC Mainline, and East Yakoun – can be driven with a standard vehicle with some caution, however.

Of course, the most notable and popular site in the Conservancy is the Golden Spruce Trail. In my earlier review of that attraction (2017), I described the whole thing as “a very serene – almost spiritual – experience.” That’s because the Golden Spruce Trail, perhaps more succinctly than anywhere else within the borders of the Conservancy, brings history, culture and spirituality together into a beautiful gestalt. The walk may be brief at 400 meters (one-way), but the weight of what you experience is almost immeasurable. First, there are the monumental cedars and the old growth Sitka spruce, which tower above us and make us realize how small we are (epiphany); then there’s the massive nurse logs found along the trail, nurturing the forest’s next generation (nature); then there are the informative plaques, which highlight Haida cultural values with respect to the land and all that it does for us (culture & spirituality); and at the trail’s main terminus point, we can see the skeleton of the Golden Spruce, felled in 1997 by a deranged logging protester (history). Recognizing the central role of Kiidk’yaas (Golden Spruce) in Haida history and storytelling, we cannot help but feel angered by the misguided “action” taken by one individual.

NOTE: The full Golden Spruce trail is approximately 1.5km long; however, only the first 400 meters are formally maintained. The remaining kilometer or so is “user maintained” and, despite recent storms, is still an easy, inspiring hike up the Yakoun River. Once you reach a point at which you’d like to stop, take a moment to reflect, re-charge and relax in nature.

All in all, the Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site/Conservancy is definitely worth visiting. The area is quite large, but the numerous service roads provide easy access to many popular sites. Whether you’re into fishing, hiking, camping, history or culture, the Conservancy has plenty to keep you busy. If you have the time, I’d definitely recommend exploring the various side roads. There’s no telling what treasures – natural or historic – you may find. On the other hand, if you’re pressed for time, then the Golden Spruce Trail offers a nice, concise summary of Yaaguun Gandlaay and why it’s important.
Written May 19, 2022
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Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site Conservancy - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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