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We spent about 3 ½ hrs exploring the raddled charm of the Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest area and most historic area. This was enough time to catch the #28 vintage tram, see the castle and Santa Luzia church, check out the miradouros (lookout points), sample the local ginja and then walk back through the narrow, winding alleys and cobbled streets back home. There was plenty we missed out, esp the Cathedral and Sao Vicente de Fora monastery but you can’t do everything. TIPS: 1. #28 TRAM - My best tip is to start by catching the #28 vintage tram so that you can walk back down (rather than up) through the very steep streets of the Alfama. There can be long lines for the tram so we made an early start. We also got on at Martim Moniz, the very first stop so we avoided the worst of the lines. 2. STARTING POINT - We went to the end of the tram line at Orique. In hindsight, this was a bit of a waste and we would’ve been better off jumping off at the panoramic viewpoint, Miradouro das Portas do Sol. It would’ve been a better point to start exploring. 3. MIRADOUROS – There are 2 fabulous lookouts within 1 min of each other. After stopping at the main one (Portas do Sol), we walked down to Santa Luzia, where there is a second lookout behind the church. An added bonus at this one is the beautiful panels of traditional azulejos tiles on the church walls. 4. ST JORGE CASTLE – next we walked uphill to the castle ruins (10-15 min). We didn't buy tickets to the towers and museum (you’d need to allow a lot more time for this), but you can still wander around inside the castle walls. 5. WALKING BACK DOWN – one of the best parts of the morning was picking our way back through the maze of whitewashed churches, crumbling buildings, narrow alleys and cobbled streets. From Portas de Sol, look for the stairs on Rua Norberto de Araujo and head down here. After that, we just followed our noses. A highlight was stumbling across a man selling home-made ginja in chocolate cups out of his front door. Who could resist?…
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Date of experience: March 2020
5 Helpful votes
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Lovely place to stop with the kiosk bar placed so correctly for people to sit and enjoy the gorgeous view. If you are buying a pastel de nata on your walk up, do remember the shops closed dead on 1pm even if you have your money in your hand the door will close!
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Date of experience: December 2020
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+1
The romantic name Alfama comes from the Arabic al-Hama ("warm spring"). This had a direct meaning, not a metaphorical one - the Arabs built numerous baths here. After the expulsion of the Moors, the borders of Lisbon were limited to Alfama for a long time. However, there was not enough land and the prosperous aristocracy began to move from the resettled Alfama further down, leaving the area for the poor. A few centuries later, this played a cruel joke on the descendants of the settlers. The great earthquake of 1755, which destroyed Lisbon in places to the ground, affected only a few Alfama. The area was saved by rocks on which the Phoenicians began to build. The energetic Marquis of Pombal did not even repair what had been damaged, leaving the poor to their own devices. This made Alfama the most authentic area of Lisbon. You don't have to go on the Alfama, you have to walk on It. Streets and alleys turn into staircases, which turn back into streets winding down the slopes. Lazy cats, Laundry on the balconies, the smell of fish and the wind from the sea that blows the heat from the streets of Alfama in summer. Romance...…
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Date of experience: January 2020
2 Helpful votes
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Walked around here, beautiful buildings but walk up was all uphill, different avenues to explore here
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Date of experience: September 2020
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In February despite cooler weather, the place was buzzing. There are great sights – churches like Santa Luzia, Our Lady of the Conception and Mary Magdalene; museums like Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva and the prison museum Aljube Resistencia e Liberdade. Close by but on the hill sits the imposing Sao Jorge Castle, an imperious lookout. The architecture harkens to a bygone era of Visigoths, Moors and Christian crusaders. With it comes the outdoor markets, hawkers, unique restaurants and an old-world charm. I was glad I visited even if it was very short. (Pre Covid-19 Experience)…
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Date of experience: February 2020
1 Helpful vote
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