I first became aware of The Fish Counter a couple weeks ago: I was lying in my hotel room and watching a marathon of Guy Fieri’s popular Food Network series, “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” My ears perked up when I heard “Vancouver, British Columbia;” and...this was followed by “The Fish Counter.” Watching the segment, Fieri plugged the Oceanwise Program, put over the fish & chips, and spoke highly of the BC Bouillabaisse, saying “It’s so simple, yet so delicious and refined.” Having patronized some of Guy Fieri’s suggested restaurants in the past and been a fan, I thought this one would surely be a home run; after all, how can you go wrong with fish & chips in Vancouver? Now, a bit of context.
The Fish Counter, which opened in late 2013, is owned & operated by the duo of Rob Clark and Mike McDermid. Those familiar with the seafood sustainability movement, which started in the early 2000s, will no doubt recognize the two names because McDermid and Clark are often considered the founders of Oceanwise. For this reason, Vancouver Foodster has called both men “leaders in sustainability.” As such, when you visit The Fish Counter, you can rest assured that the seafood you’re taking home, or eating at the restaurant, is fresh AND sustainably harvested. In brief, patrons can feel good about what they’re eating.
Interestingly, The Fish Counter received a lot of heavy-hitter press well before Guy Fieri came into the picture (2019). Not long after the establishment opened, it got covered by the likes of Noshwell, Vancouver Foodster, Globe & Mail, Georgia Straight, and the Vancouver Sun. I suspect this was largely due to Clark and McDermid’s ties to Oceanwise. Needless to say, all put in a glowing word, with some declaring the fish & chips to be “the best” in the area (always a tough statement to back up!), and still others, like the Vancouver Sun, going wild over the bouillabaisse: “Don’t miss the bouillabaisse, with its undercurrents of fennel, tomato, garlic and saffron.” With all this praise, you know it’s gotta be good!
In any event, I arrived at The Fish Counter in the early afternoon for lunch. The interior certainly fits the theme for Fieri’s show: They’ve gone for the industrial vibe; you know, with the white walls, exposed pipe, wooden beams, and a lot of clutter everywhere. In this day and age, the industrial look is hardly original, but that’s not why we’re here – we’ve come for the fish & chips! As for the “dining area,” it’s very small. Most of The Fish Counter is occupied by the store where you can buy fish jerky, frozen fish, fresh fish, soup broth, salsa, and other delightful seafood accoutrements. The dine-in section of The Fish Counter is limited to a small table tucked up against a wall (with 2 chairs) and 4 stools along the window. As such, takeout is obviously the major business here – perfect during COVID!
Having lived in both Prince Rupert and Haida Gwaii (places explicitly mentioned on The Fish Counter’s website), and being a seafood buff, you just know I had to get the fish & chips + BC Bouillabaisse. For the fish & chips, I tried both the cod & salmon. I’ll agree with the bloggers and critics on one point: The batter is light and crisp and there’s a good ratio of fish to batter; however, it was quite oily AND there were a number of errant bones in my cod – no one likes bones in their fish & chips. As for the much lauded bouillabaisse, I was totally disappointed with this item. Far from being “delicious and refined,” it was seriously lacking in flavour and – shockingly – thin with respect to the seafood. Seriously, all I found were a couple small pieces of cod, 2 mussels, a few clams and LOTS of tomatoes. Boring.
FOOD: 2.5/5
SERVICE: 4/5
VALUE: 3/5
RECOMMENDATION: While I applaud the use of fresh, sustainable seafood, I’d hardly agree that this place is “best in the city” when it comes to fish & chips. I’ve definitely had better in Vancouver and elsewhere. Very mild recommendation to check them out if you’re in the area; however, I wouldn’t go out of my way.
PS: If you found this review helpful in any way please consider hitting the "helpful" button!More