My fault for expecting too much! Reading about Yufuin, I had an image of pretty, well-preserved village with many onsen. It is small and can be visited in one morning, but I would not recommend it to anyone; best to spend more time in Beppu. Yufuin's main attraction is a long street with stores, cafes and restaurant on both sides. Yes, you can find some nice souvenirs and the village is probably very relaxing in the evening; but it all feels like a tourist trap, no charm at all.
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