We rented this wonderfully baroque apartment for a family reunion for five in early April, and would recommend it to anyone. It’s located just south of the river in the residential area of Otrarno, a few steps from Piazza Santo Spirito , close to real-people grocery shopping and within easy walking distance of all the attractions, indoor and outdoor. The apartment is on the first floor (a 22-step climb, no elevator) of an ancient family palazzo, across the street from the Gucci palazzo. You access the apartment through a big entry hall-room with sofas and frescoes and statuary, shared with renters of other apartments on this floor, and that leads to a long, frescoed corridor into your own big space—a large frescoed sitting/dining-room, a fully functional kitchen, a large bathroom, an outdoor terrace for meals when the weather’s fine, three spacious double bedrooms with chandeliers and vast armoires and bedcovers decorated with the family crest: it’s all tangibly antique, comfortably faded by the centuries, and lovely to be in. There’s a useful second full bathroom one floor up along with another small bedroom, but the main floor was perfectly accommodating for five, and would be for six, which was just as well, because the upstairs bedroom was uncomfortably warm. The three main bedrooms look out onto gardens with cascading wisterias and rhodos, and the sideboard below the trompe l’oeil cherubs in the dining/sitting room is stocked with a choice of wines from the owner’s nearby vineyard (there’s an honor box for payment of the very reasonable prices). Thinking we might be too tired from our various travels to go out for dinner on our first night, we arranged for chef Alexandra to come in and prepare a Tuscan meal for us, and she set up a lavish spread at 25 Euros a head—antipasti, tagliatelle with a meat sauce, a traditional Tuscan stew, chocolate salami for dessert, with printed and decorated menus, a nice touch. Our entire stay was a delight, and (shopping at the corner bakery for our morning croissants, sitting over coffee or a glass of wine on the piazza watching the world go by) gave us a strong sense of being part of the “real” Florence.