We made several visits to the Alfama district and each time wished we had longer. It's full of fascinating glimpses of Portuguese life and often reveals surprises round the corner such as a party with a rather good singer in a small square, interesting graffiti and so on. The first visit was to a restaurant recommended in our guide book. It was fine but felt rather 'for tourists'. The second visit was unplanned, caused by the bus from the castle inexplicably not running. But what a lovely walk we had instead.
Well worth visiting and mooching around in to bask in the atmosphere.