…by most visitors to Lisbon in favour of big brother Gulbenkian, this is a gem, easily accessed from the centre of the city. Laid out on three floors, it is slightly confusing as to where things are as the hilly site and the two entrances don't help. The enfilade of galleries of Old Masters, though small are choice with a recent highlight show of Lisbon’s wonderful Durer ‘Head of an Old Man’ shown in conjunction with three studies of the composition from the Albertina in Vienna. Who persuaded them to lend? What an achievement!
The great Bosch and Holbien are well-know, but the beautiful van Dyke portrait of Lucas Vosterman is less so and the lovely group of English pictures – Reynolds, Hoppner and Cotes – are surprising and surprisingly good. Lovely Chinese and Japanese arts are less surprising in the light of Portugal’s trading empire.


















