Taking the free 3 1/2 hour Sandemann walking tour in Jerusalem was an excellent way to learn the Old City. It meets outside the Jaffa Gate in front of the Tourism Office at 11 AM ande 3:30 PM - just look for the people in the red shirts. I always do my own tours but made an exception in Jerusalem - it was a good choice. You get so much background in a place that has so much history, and the presentation was as neutral as could be, considering all the passion Jerusalem can invoke. You take in sites that are purely historical as well as sites that have religious significance. We took the Old City free tour one day (the guides work for tips) and went through all 4 quarters, and then next day took the small cost Mount of Olives tour. We had the same guide both times (Dvir was great!). It would have taken a great deal of homework for me to duplicate the experience on my own, and I am predisposed to creating my own tours. Extremely good value - especially if you are traveling as a family!
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