I’ve just returned from a fabulous stay at the Four Seasons Hong Kong for Christmas holiday and can’t express enough how wonderful the stay was. In fact, it is one of my top hotel stays ever. As the whole world recognizes The Peninsula as the perennial and ultimate luxury, it is nice to know that there is one strong contender that could rivaled the old grand dame. Forget about the old Mandarin (currently refurb) and Inter Continental as they are overrated where the physical product is aging and unimposing. The Landmark Mandarin is overpriced; boutique style with no views from its room other than the concrete jungle it is situated amongst.

In fact, some of hotels in HK that live up to every traveler’s expectation (not only impressed by pictures on the brochures and let down on actual stay) are Four Seasons and Peninsula. Both hotels’ overall location, décor, service, facilities, dining, room, and iconic status are on top of their game.

LOCATION:
Peninsula: Best location in Kowloon, with Harbour City, new Sogo and other high end shopping within walking distance; Star Ferry is also across the road within walking distance.

Four Seasons: Best location in Hong Kong Island and clearly my preferred address as it sits above HK’s best shopping mall -the IFC Mall- that connects further to Armani Flagship store at Charter House, Prada’s Asia flagship at Alexandra House and Louis Vuitton’s imposing 3 levels HK flagship store at the Landmark. Add to that is the convenience of transportation with MRT and Airport Express directly at IFC; Star Ferry and outlying island ferry adjacent.

DÉCOR/LOBBY:
Peninsula: The grand lobby with classical décor overwhelms everyone with its ornate detailing, which sets the tone for the overall décor. The lobby, however, is small with no harbor view and overcrowded with tourists sampling the Lobby Lounge and shoppers from it’s magnificent arcade. Let’s face it, The Pen is a Hong Kong icon and no visit to HK is complete without a visit to its public spaces.

Four Seasons: The Four Seasons’ decor is quite the opposite to the Peninsula: fresh, bright and contemporary. It is a mixture of form simplicity and Chinese-infused detailing and materials. The main lobby foyer is grand, with full harbor view from it’s imposing 6 storey glass façade. A grand staircase connects you to the Ballroom level with a 4 storey atrium. Materials used are first grade: even the door handle at lift foyer is clad with leather and stainless steel ornament.

SERVICE:
The Pen is renowned for its first class service which has been its hallmark, so there is no point to make extra comment. Four Seasons, on the other hand, proves to deliver an outstanding service considering it only opened a couple of months ago. Confirming to earlier 5 posts, there was no snobbishness and attitude among the staffs which handled matters professionally with a seemingly friendly face.
Similar experience also echoed throughout the hotel. One nice surprise on my visit to the pool was to be greeted by a local pool lady who was arranging the pool sun lounger. Upon my entry, she quickly greeted me and showed me around the pool with a nice conversation – all in a perfect British accented English!. There were so many thank you she mentioned though –few for my complement to how beautiful the pool and views are, and also for my visit to the pool. Upon check out, when I didn’t received my inclusive room package gift, Peggy the courteous receptionist even ran across the lobby to the gift shop to make sure I received one.

ROOMS:
Standard room at Four Seasons clearly outshines Pen’s Superior room at the old building. Although they have similar room size (45m2), Four Seasons layout appears more spacious. Only the rooms at the Pen’s newer tower could rival Four Seasons standard room. But for similar non-harbor view room, Four Seasons has better view towards HK skyline and the Peak, whereas the Peninsula overlook Kowloon’s less desirable skyline. Both harbor view rooms have unbeatable harbor view. However, by nature HK skyline has a more interesting backdrop.
Pen’s classical rooms are very comfortable with superb amenities; whereas Four Seasons rooms are stylish and contemporary with Plasma TV, designer leather chairs, unique lighting feature and art objects. The only thing missing is a two seater sofa which in Pen’s case makes a very comfortable stay.

BATHROOM:
Both hotels have luxurious spacious bathrooms with double sinks, separate shower and lavatories and TV by the tub. However, by virtue of the design, Four Seasons bathroom appears more spacious and contemporary with unique lighting. Nevertheless, the tub at Four Seasons is smaller but wider; and the TV is smaller and hung high from the tub which makes viewing quite difficult. Amenities are by L’occitane but not in generous amount. Pen in overall has much better amenities and comfort factor.

FOOD:
Peninsula: There are several highly acclaimed dining venue at the Pen. The Gaddi’s, Felix, Spring Moon and Verandah are all world renowned.

Four Seasons: Four Seasons’ answer to the Gaddi’s is its French restaurant, Caprice. Décor is contemporary with classical reference and harbor view frontage creating a memorable dining experience. Food is prepared by Michelin starred chef from the Four Seasons Paris. The Lobby Lounge, however, is less memorable in comparison with Pen’s Lobby Lounge, although it has full harbor view. Room service was efficient even when ordered at the stroke of midnight.

POOL/SPA:
The Pen’s indoor pool with Hong Kong side’s harbor view is breathtaking; but for people who love the outdoor, the Four Seasons arguably has the best pool in the world, which is set above IFC mall podium amongst manicured garden and lovely seating arrangement. There are 2 pools and the larger one is edgeless with breathtaking view towards Kowloon side, which creates an out-of-this-world experience. This is arguably the best city hotel’s pool anywhere in the world. I was so amazed by the pool area that I made sure I took photos during different times of the day.

OVERALL, The Pen is always the Pen: a Hong Kong institution, which delivers the benchmark for quality. Four Seasons, however is a contemporary icon for Hong Kong. Service is outstanding even for this 2 months old baby, I could imagined in few years time when it will be Pen’s counterpart at Hong Kong Island. In conclusion, it is hard to make a verdict which is the best among the two as both have merits and advantages of their own. Therefore it is fair to recommend the Pen when staying at Kowloon; and Four Seasons at HK Island. But for my personal choice, the Four Seasons is my clear winner.