Kaukasian mountain range is electrifying with the Elbrus peak at its best. Our guide Vladimir from... read more
Kaukasian mountain range is electrifying with the Elbrus peak at its best. Our guide Vladimir from... read more
What a great mount! The higher to climb, the more beautiful, scary and dangerous it is. The mount... read more
My family of 3 (to include my just-turned-14-year-old son) successfully summited Mount Elbrus on June 2, 2015.
For those who say that climbing Mount Elbrus is “easy,” I am guessing they are comparing it to Everest or K2 or Vinson or some other extreme mountain, because climbing Elbrus is not easy. But it is doable if you hire a good guiding company like we did, are in excellent physical condition, are willing to endure cold, high altitude, exhaustion, and being dirty for a few days. If you are American, you also have to be willing to fill out a Russian Federation visa application that is longer and more intrusive than any college or job application you have ever seen.
If you can put up with all of this, you will be rewarded with seeing an area that is as gorgeous as the Swiss Alps and meeting very kind Russians who will teach you so much, and not just about climbing tall mountains.
My family and I were very apprehensive about going on this trip due to the fact that our government recommends that Americans not go there. In addition, there is not a lot of published information about reputable Elbrus guiding companies.
As it turned out, we chose the absolute best climbing and tour operator, and ended up with the absolute best and most experienced guides on Elbrus.
We also had fantastic weather on summit day, which does not always happen.
Climbing Mount Elbrus is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that should not be missed by anyone who loves the outdoors, a physical challenge, and the opportunity to meet and get to know not just Russians, but people from around the world.
A few tips about the barrels—
The ones the company we were with held up to 12 people. There were 6 wooden bunkbeds with cute floral comforters on them so you didn’t need a sleeping mat. We were lucky that we climbed during low season and our family of 3 had a barrel to ourselves. I think it would be miserable if you had to share the barrel with 11 others! Also, the barrels sometimes have electricity to run an overhead light and electric heater for a couple of hours in the evening. Do not count on this though, ours did not work while we were there. I was a bit worried after our acclimatization hike to Pashtakov Rocks in a snow storm when all of our stuff got wet. But luckily the next day it was sunny and we put things outside, and although there was snow everywhere, our things actually dried!
Toilets. Ours was a very large rectangle cut out of a wood board, surrounded by a shack. Every time I went in, I was terrified of falling in. Additionally, I was so glad there was plenty of snow between the shack and our barrel so that everything came off the bottom of our boots before we entered our barrel.
Water. Our wonderful cook melted snow and boiled it for drinking and cooking. I was concerned we might get sick from it, but none of us did. So don’t worry about it. And there was always plenty of hot and cold water for drinking and filling thermoses.
Food. The food we had at the barrels was fantastic and always a great variety. Even I, a vegetarian, was accomodated.
Summit Day. We happened to get lucky and had great weather on the night scheduled for summit, but the following day, a Russian group at the barrels with us, could not summit due to horrible weather. So you never know.
Our guides said the normal time from the barrels to the top is 12 hours and around 6 to hike down. From the Barrels to Pashtakov Rocks (where most people do an acclimatization hike to) is 4 hours (we made it in 3), and from there to the top is usually 8. But all of this depends on the weather, your conditioning, and if you get altitude sickness.
The snow cat to Pashtakov Rocks cost $600EUROS and the cost is divided among whomever takes it. This cuts off 3-4 hours of walking up to the summit.
You can rent or buy all kinds of excellent equipment in town from various shops. don’t provide any.
We did a short trip and felt we were acclimatized (but we live at 6000 feet)
day 1 arrival
day 2 acclimatization hike
day 3 move to the barrels & hike from there (Don't count on the all the ski lifts operating. The last one to the barrels was closed when we were there so we had to do a 45 minute hike up a steep mountain with our gear in a snowstorm.)
day 4 ice axe, crampon, and climbing harness training
day 5 wake up early and summit
day 6 descend
day 7 hike around the beautiful town
day 8 leave
Summited 10 July 0930 2015 the real way, so no cheating on snowcats. Weather was great, the area is just amazing. The mountsineering community is great. Just be aware of all the russisans in the valley that try to cheat you on everything :)
End of september 2013 we (8) took the northern route to try to reach the top. Trip to base camp was fun and enjoyable with wooden sheds to sleep in. Hardly any climbers and had the camp almost for ourselves. During the move to high camp we got hit by blizzard winds and snow. Did stay at high camp under trying circumstances and both our second sleeping tent and eating area blew away. As the situation got worse our cook left and our team was left with only 1 local guide. Decided to stay a bit longer but with no sign of improving weather we went back to base camp were the sun warmed us up. For our team this was the first mountain that did not allow to reach the top. Will come back another time but the northern route on the Elbrus is one tough climb, if you have less time or want a better chance of reaching the top take the southern slopes.
I have been guiding clients on Mount Elbrus since 1999 now and made many ascents from both sides. In the early days there was just the famous 'Barrels' and the Priut-11 hut which tragically suffered from a fire, but now there are many huts and many private companies opening up the mountain. I remember using the very old cable car system and sleeping on the concrete in the station, whereas now there are brand new cable cars working the route from Azau village.
For a long time Elbrus had the infamous distinction of having the world's most horrible toilet, and it wasn't far from the truth! The second Priut Hut boasted a stalagmite of poo below the long drop that was metres high. Nowadays things are slowly changing and there are many huts, although the sanitation still leaves something to be desired.
Perhaps most importantly is that there is now a rescue hut placed in the Saddle itself at 5400 metres. Since most problems on the mountain occur with people getting sick or lost in this place, the bright red hut with room for two to lie down or a team of 4 to rest has been a big boost to safety on the hill. It is easy to spot on a clear day but on a foggy day it is very easy to get lost and wandering off route and the consequences of doing that is one of the biggest causes of fatalities on the mountain. Rescues are difficult, even though the big snowcats can now get to 5000 metres. Finding people in a whiteout is hard so it's as well to know that this hut exists!
The coordinates of the hut, set at the beginning of the rocky ridge that descends from the east to the saddle of Elbrus - right on the trail to the top of the eastern and north and south - is N 43° 21' 05", E 042° 26' 53". Please do put it in your GPS before ascending and make sure your guide has a GPS and knows how to use it, or someone in the team does. The route is not difficult but finding that hut in a whiteout can be hard.
I've been guiding Adventure Alternative a for a very long time now and I've had some wonderful times in the Baksan Valley. Never any problems, great food and wine and lovely people.
I signed up for the 8-day South Route trek with Pilgrim Tours. I would recommend them. Guides are experienced.
Pilgrim Tours have built their own containers at Base Camp which were clean and comfortable.
Mt. Elbrus is a more difficult climb than Kilimanjaro. Listen to your guide's advise if he says you will need to rent any equipment for the climb. The equipments are readily available at the store in Baksan Valley.
Spent a week climbing Mount Elbrus with Pilgrim Tours. Excellent experience. Well organised tour company. Be prepared for some inefficiencies, but this leaves plenty of time to take in the beautiful surrounds. Simply spectacular country-side from up on the mountain. Difficult area to get to but this is half the adventure. Highly recommended for the adventurous type who loves to travel in unique and sometimes difficult environments.