Although only 20 minutes by car from the coast, this place seems to belong to a quieter, gentler age. No clubs, no resorts, no Berlusconi wannabes. Leo and Marzia, the polyglot owners, have their B&B, Stazzo Chivoni, a couple of hundred metres up the road; this two-bedroomed cottage is independent and self-catering.
Simply (but imaginatively) furnished and decorated, it has two working fireplaces, five beds (seven at a pinch, but you'd need to put a couple in the sitting room), a large garden with wonderful views, a fair-sized kitchen and a washing machine. No TV or internet, but a wall full of books in at least four languages. There's a CD player and an eclectic mix of music (big-ups for Talking Heads...)
Farmers' markets in nearby towns and villages will supply you with all the fresh produce you need for delicious family meals, but if you're not into cooking, there are good restaurants within a few minutes' drive.
The hosts are delightful, cultivated people, and provide excellent directions (avoiding the tourist routes) to all the worthwhile sights -- including a 4000-year-old olive tree -- and some great lesser-known beaches.
We (parents with two teenaged children) paid 70 euros a night for the cottage at Easter, and thought it a bargain. In high summer, it would no doubt be more expensive, but those thick 19th-century stone walls must be a blessing in the August heat...More
- Free Wifi
- Free Parking