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Varenna is a slow-paced destination—most visitors come here to relax by the lake. But even if "Working on my tan" is the #1 thing on your itinerary, take some time to explore the area. There’s the Castello di Vizio, a mediaeval fortress surrounded by an olive grove. And you’ll want to view the old, tiered gardens at the Villa Cipressi—they stretch all the way down to the water. Finally, visit the source of the Fiumelatte, a peculiar river—it’s only 250 m long and disappears from October to March.